A Visit To Corrour Will Make Your Heart Soar

Taking the train to Corrour, I was squeezed between the hanging bikes. My knees were bent, and my stance was wide, trying not to fall. The train swayed and jolted along the final few minutes of track from Rannoch to Corrour. My anticipation was building.

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This is a train journey unlike all others. There was a solitary man in a suit who looked incongruous amongst the tourists. They were there with their phones pressed against windows. Each recording the scenery unfolding, wildness and grandeur unfolding with each mile. The rear carriage was packed. This was the adventure train, full of rucksacks, and with excitement peaking. Corrour was the next stop. The platform at Corrour is small, so only one door of the train can open. All the traveller’s rucksacks appear in the aisle, before being hoisted onto backs, ready to go.

Arriving At Corrour Station

We’re here, among all the intrepid adventurers ready to start their respective journeys. Munro baggers, cyclists, walkers. Everyone clambers out of the single door, each laden with bikes and rucksacks. Instead of heading straight into the longed-for hills, we all cross the tracks and head into Corrour Station House. This was voted Best Restaurant in the North of Scotland in the Scottish Food Awards 2023.

Here, you can try venison burgers with locally brewed beer from Glen Spean Brewing Company . There’s frothy cappuccino with the best gluten-free brownies. They are so big that I saved half of mine for the next day, not something I often do! The restaurant empties and everyone takes their obligatory Trainspotting photos on the platform. Finally, everyone disperses, and you are left alone in the splendid isolation that is Corrour.

Corrour is Britain’s most remote station as well as being the highest. There is no road access making it a prime target for anyone who likes to get off the beaten track. In recent years it has become a magnet for lovers of the outdoors, it’s the remoteness itself that has led to its popularity. In addition to adventure lovers, day trippers come on the train from Fort William to have lunch at the station and take a stroll down to the shores of Loch Ossian before heading back on the evening train.

The First Time

My first visit to Corrour was around 1990 and it couldn’t have been more different, although little has changed. That time, alone, I alighted onto a completely deserted platform from a carriage that was empty apart from a single ghillie telling tall tales to an enraptured tourist.

As the train slowly pulled away, I felt the most overwhelming sense of isolation. I was no stranger to remote places but somehow the sense of being alone, completely alone, is enormously heightened by the train pulling away. Perhaps it’s the sudden withdrawal of other people, or the strangeness of a railway station without passengers?

Usually, you walk or drive to somewhere remote, gradually leaving other people behind. Here the abandonment is sudden, bewildering, out of your control, and the feeling unexpected. I had only felt like this once before when I was eighteen and my Mum said a tearful goodbye as she left me at my student accommodation when I first left home.

Corrour in 1990 had no restaurant, there was nothing at the station, no one. It was before it featured in the film Trainspotting as the place Tommy took Renton, Spud, and Sick Boy to experience fresh air.

The Railway Children

The station was built in 1894 as a place for trains to pass on this remote section of line and was used almost exclusively as a station for the estate. An extra clerk was even employed during the grouse season. It wasn’t until forty years later in 1934 that the station was listed on public timetables. It was used as a sub-post and telegraph office until 1977.

A couple lived at the station house as station masters until 1996 raising four girls known as the railway children. Things changed when the husband became ill and had to be airlifted to hospital, followed by the unreliable generator, the only source of power, breaking down. The couple, who were both in their sixties, decided to leave forever as they didn’t want to experience another harsh winter with 25ft snowdrifts. In 1995, Corrour Estate was purchased by Lisbet Rausing, Tetrapak’s heir. The estate built a new station house in 1999 and in 2015 they opened a restaurant.

Now, around 12,000 passengers a year use the station, more than any other station on the line north of Crianlarich except Fort William and Mallaig. And yet there is nothing here, but then that is the point, although it fascinates me that more people travel to see nothing than they do to see something.

The essence of Corrour hasn’t changed, it’s as unique now as it always has been. Unusually, I’m glad more people come and experience this intriguing corner of the world. There’s plenty to do, or nothing, as you prefer.

Trainspotting the musical is due to launch in 2024 so I expect this will lead to more visitors, but you only need to leave the station to find solitude. There are many adventures possible from Corrour, and here are some of our favourites.

Walking & Cycling Day Routes From Corrour Station

Circuit of Loch Ossian 15km 85m ascent

A circuit around this beautiful loch takes around four to five hours to walk or two hours to cycle, making it possible to complete between trains if you don’t want to stay overnight or just need a quick hit of the wild. Trains are not frequent so check the timetables and be sure of your abilities to complete this in time, as it is not somewhere to be stranded for the night unprepared.

That said, this circuit makes an ideal first walk or cycle in a remote location if undertaken in good weather. Navigation is straightforward, the terrain easy and there’s almost no ascent. So, if you can walk or cycle 15km comfortably in your local woods, you will be fine. The walk offers glimpses of Corrour Lodge, built in 2003 and it is available to rent.

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Leum Uilleim and Beinn na Lap

If it’s a hill walk you want, then Leum Uilleim and Beinn na Lap are both easily accessed from Corrour Station and benefit from a start point altitude of 400m, thus reducing the amount of ascent. Beinn na Lap is one of the easier Munros, and although higher than Leum Uilleim it’s a more straightforward walk. Many Munro baggers save Beinn na Lap for their last Munro.

There’s something so unique about Corrour, it makes a fitting end to such an achievement, so don’t be surprised to reach the summit and find people walking under an arch made of walking poles, a platform full of people celebrating in fancy dress or a piper perhaps. If you have been up a few hills and can navigate confidently using a map and compass, then Beinn na Lap is a great hill for a first (or last) Munro.

For more detailed route descriptions of both walks see Walk Highlands, www.walkhighlands.co.uk/fortwilliam/beinn-na-lap.shtml
www.walkhighlands.co.uk/fortwilliam/leum-uilleim.shtml

Spend a Weekend

Combining a circuit of Loch Ossian with an ascent of Beinn na Lap makes for a great weekend, an overnight in Corrour is always magical.

Corrour to Rannoch 18km, 236m ascent

Take the train one stop from Rannoch station to Corrour station, then walk or cycle back along the old ‘Road to the Isles’ between the two stations. This is mostly on good gravel tracks with a short section of quiet road back to the finish at Rannoch station which is itself located at the end of a dead-end single-track road. There’s a tearoom on the platform and deer are almost always seen around here. I have listed places to stay at the end of the article.

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Overnight Back Packing and Bike Packing

Corrour is a great start, mid, or end point for back and bike packers looking for an overnight or longer trip. Whilst all routes can of course be done in any direction, as Corrour is situated at an altitude of 400m, it is usually best to begin here, as there will be more downhill than up. Many possibilities present themselves when you start looking at maps, here are some of our favourites.

Corrour to Fort William 27km 348m ascent

Take the train to Corrour and walk to Fort William, where you can get the train back to your start point. A beautiful, but boggy in parts, walk that takes you through lonely country to beautiful Steall Falls, passing Tom an Eite, an insignificant bump on the map which is reputedly Scotland’s wettest point. This walk is best avoided after heavy rain. If visibility is good, you’ll see Ben Nevis.

Spend the night at either Staoineag bothy or Meanach bothy, or alternatively you can wild camp. It’s 27km from Corrour to the road end in Glen Nevis, where a bus runs to Fort William in the summer, stopping at Glen Nevis Youth Hostel and Glen Nevis Camp Site on the way.

You can often hitch a lift from the Steall Falls car park which is usually busy in the daytime with day trippers. Or else you can walk the rest of the way to Fort William, either along the road or via the more pleasant woodland route.

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Corrour to Spean Bridge 25km 428m ascent

Good, easy-to-follow paths and tracks all the way, except for a small pathless area through boggy ground just before you reach Lairig Leacach bothy. Just keep the river to your right and you will pick up the path again. There are two paths through Lairig Leacach, the one to the west side of the Allt na Lairigh, Allt means river, is the better one to follow.

More experienced mountain bikers will enjoy this route but for most people, it’s a walk, not a cycle. Some people walk this in a long day, but we think it’s best as an overnight. Splitting the two days based on your train times means you can enjoy a relaxed lunch along the river.

There are lots of lovely places to wild camp on the way or you can overnight at Lairig Leacach bothy which you may share with walkers heading up The Grey Corries.

Be sure to give some coins to the wee minister that you’ll meet along the way…

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Dalwhinnie to Corrour 38km 667m ascent

This is best undertaken as part of a through route due to transport connections. There are excellent tracks from Dalwhinnie Station to Loch Pattack, followed by a climb over Bealach Dubh by Ben Alder, on a path through stunning surroundings.

There is a short section where you need to leave the path you are on before it heads south-west towards Bealach Chumhainn. Continue straight on to pick up the faint boggy path alongside the Uisge Labhair. Once you reach Loch Ossian the track is excellent again and you can choose to follow it north or south to reach the west end of the loch, where you’ll take the short path to the station.

Experienced mountain bikers or bike packers will enjoy this route but the pathless section is a very boggy hike-a-bike so be prepared. For backpackers, this is a remote walk with superb views throughout, although the section alongside Loch Ericht will seem long without a bike.

Getting To Corrour Station

Corrour Station lies on the West Highland line, one of Europe’s most scenic rail journeys. The railway crosses Rannoch Moor, a hauntingly beautiful expanse of boggy moorland, frequently more water than land. Rannoch Station has information panels describing the history of the line including a fascinating explanation of how it was decided that the only way to lay tracks across the moor would be to float them on brushwood, which remains how it is crossed to this day.

The line runs from both Glasgow and Oban, with trains joining together at Crianlarich before continuing to Fort William. If you are in the area already, then Crianlarich, Tyndrum, and Bridge of Orchy are good places to join the train. All have adequate parking and somewhere nearby to eat and the stations are connected by buses running along the A82.

The line also runs close to Loch Lomond with a stop at Arrochar & Tarbet. If you are in the east, then you can start at Rannoch Station, and although it is a long drive, it’s a very beautiful one, as you drive alongside Loch Rannoch with its little beaches.

Remarkably, this wilderness can be reached by the overnight Caledonian Sleeper train from London Euston. With comfortable new trains introduced in 2019 and convenient arrival and departure times this is a stylish, if expensive, way to arrive. https://www.sleeper.scot/

Otherwise, trains are operated by Scotrail. Reservations are essential if you are bringing your bike as spaces are limited, although at the time of writing there are plans to roll out much needed bike carriages. Book at scotrail. The only alternative way to reach Corrour Station is by walking or cycling, which is at least 18km depending on your start point. There is no road access unless you are staying at one of the estate properties.

Where To Stay

Corrour Station House offers one-of-a-kind accommodation in the old signal box. There are three comfortable and beautifully decorated double en-suite rooms which are small but perfectly formed and look right onto the tracks. Don’t worry, you’ll get a great night’s sleep as there are usually only around four trains a day in each direction. Food is served in the restaurant across the tracks.

The Loch Ossian Youth Hostel occupies the old Corrour Lodge building, right on the shores of the loch and an easy 2km stroll from the station.

Accommodation is in dormitories, or you can rent the whole hostel for a group. Basic snacks are available, and you can camp outside and use the facilities.

https://www.hostellingscotland.org.uk/hostels/loch-ossian/

Corrour Estate offers self-catering at three of the old estate cottages, all of which have been tastefully restored to extremely high standards. www.corrour.co.uk/

There is no organised campsite at Corrour Station but the Station House Restaurant allows you to pitch on a grassy patch out the back, and the hostel lets you camp outside by Loch Ossian and use their facilities for a small charge.

Loch Ossian shores aren’t great for wild camping but head up Strath Ossian for plenty of good options, and all our bike and backpacking routes listed offer lots of great places for responsible wild campers.

The 2 AA Rosette Award-winning Moor of Rannoch Restaurant and Rooms is perfectly placed by Rannoch Station, one stop away from Corrour Station. This is ideal for anyone wishing to walk from one station to the other. With an exceptional seven-course tasting menu, this is the place to stay if you get hungry just thinking about all these adventures. www.moorofrannoch.co.uk

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