Rainbow on the Fjords

This article gives you all the information needed to easily plan and book your own activity holiday in the Norwegian fjords for one third of the cost of joining an organised tour. 

Norway is an ideal country for self-booking because there aren’t many organised tours and those that do exist are very expensive. Booking yourself is straightforward, there are plenty of activities to choose from and you’ll have the flexibility to tailor your adventure to your own interests and fitness levels. The hospitality is excellent and travelling around on your own by car and public transport is easy and safe.

This 12-day trip starts in the beautiful city of Bergen, then a scenic train journey takes you to the start of a three-day cycling and wild camping adventure, followed by a two-day guided kayak trip. After this you can choose to either spend a few days relaxing in charming villages enjoying scenic drives and short walks or take part in the endless activities available in Jostedalsbreen National Park, including glacier hikes and rafting, before finally heading back to Bergen. 

The trip is suitable for anyone who cycles a little and is moderately fit. You don’t need any kayaking experience. 

We provide a detailed day by day itinerary with options to customise your trip, we’ve checked out all the accommodation, activity providers and transport options and only recommend those that we use ourselves. You can also read our kayak adventure trip report and our article on our experience of cycling the Rallarvegen.

Our Kind of Travel’s recommended itinerary is for 11-nights / 12-days and costs £1,330 per person, that’s £121 per night. This includes absolutely everything except flights. The closest comparable trip is for 8-nights and costs £2821, £353 per night, excluding flights. See our full comparison with the best available tours.

Itinerary Overview

Day 1 Fly to Bergen, city sightseeing and funicular railway to mountain walks with sea views.
Day 2Train to Haugastøl, start three-day cycle along Rallarvegen – Norway’s most scenic cycle route, weaving through glacial mountain landscapes down to a picturesque fjord village, wild camping by a beautiful lake.
Day 3Cycle though alpine scenery to reach the arctic expedition training ground at Finse for lunch. Continue over the route’s highest point with extensive views, wild camp in remote mountain terrain.
Day 4Cycle downhill following a river through narrow gorges and exhilarating hairpin bends to reach the village of Flåm, perched on the stunning Aurlandsfjord. Overnight in a campsite.
Day 5A day to explore the area further before taking the 15-minute journey by bus to Gudvangen through Norway’s second longest tunnel. Today’s options include ziplining, a scenic railway trip, walks and a Viking experience. Overnight in hotel.
Day 6Load up your kayak and head off for a two-day paddling expedition along the breath-taking UNESCO Nærøyfjord, wild camp on a beach.
Day 7Start the day with a refreshing swim before continuing your kayak trip, ending in Gudvangen with tea and cake. Collect your hire car and wild camp in stunning mountain scenery.
Day 8Take an electric ferry across Sognefjord, the ‘King of the Fjords’ and Norway’s longest and deepest. Enjoy your scenic drive north to Jostedalsbreen National Park which has plenty of accommodation options including an excellent campsite.
Day 9-11From your base in the National Park, spend the next three days choosing from rafting, ice-climbing, hiking, glacier walking, driving scenic byways, taking the Skylift to Mount Hoven and kayaking to glaciers. On days 10 & 11, enjoying your chosen activities at Jostedalsbreen National Park.
Day 12Scenic drive to Voss to return your hire car, catch a train to Bergen.

Detailed Day-by-day Activity

Day 1 Bergen City

Take a flight or train to Bergen and a 30 minute transfer to the city centre. Check in to your accommodation and start exploring this green city of seven mountains. Bergen is easy to get around and for this short visit all the main sites are within easy walking distance of each other.

Bergen’s must-see area is Bryggen, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Bryggen is Bergen’s old wharf and dates from around 1070. Its strategic position led it to become one of the largest and most important Hanseatic League trading ports of northern Europe.

Bergen Bryggen
Bryggen, Bergen

Stroll along the impressive waterfront lined with colourful wooden buildings which now serve as shops, studios, restaurants and hotels. Continue as far as the fortress, Bergenhus Festning, then wind your way back through the narrow alleys and backstreets of Bryggen to see more of the ancient buildings with their crooked staircases and tiny doors. 

Bergen Fishmarket, Fisketorget i Bergen, is on the opposite side of the harbour to Bryggen. Stalls and restaurants sell all kinds of fish and seafood as well as produce from local farms. It’s an interesting place to wander around and you can buy fish and chips to eat on the go or if you love seafood, it’s worth splurging on some of the delectable menus offered here.

Bergen Harbour Ship
Bergen harbour

For a different view, take the Fløibanen funicular railway, or walk, to the top of one of Bergen’s seven mountains, Fløyen. There are far-reaching views across the city and out to sea, and scenic walks. Walks range from short forest strolls to a lake, 2 to 3-hour walks to stunning viewpoints or a difficult full-day high-level walk to Mount Ulrik, where you can take the cable car, Ulriksbanen, back down to the city. Fløibanen runs until 23.00 which is around the time it gets dark so take advantage of the long daylight hours to enjoy an evening sunset walk and dinner at the restaurant or buy some picnic food at the fish market to enjoy on the summit. You can borrow canoes free of charge or hire mountain bikes and paddleboards.

Transport

There are two good ways to get from the airport to the city centre:

TransportTime from AirportPrice per PersonFrequency
Airport Bus ‘Flybussen’30 minutesNOK149 online
NOK179 on bus
Every 20-30 mins
Bergen Light Rail ‘Bybanen’45 minutesNOK40Every 5-15 mins

Public transport in Norway is reliable, efficient and frequent. The airport isn’t far from the city centre so there’s no need to take more expensive taxis or private transfers.

Bergen City Centre
Bergen city centre

The airport bus, Flybussen, departs from directly outside the arrival’s terminal at stop A5. There are ticket machines here and the drivers are extremely friendly and helpful. There are several stops in the city, your accommodation will likely be less than 2 minutes’ walk away. All upcoming stops are displayed on the bus, so there’s no stressing about which stop to get off at. Your accommodation confirmation will usually tell you the nearest stop.

The light rail, Bybanen line 1, is a bit slower but cheaper. It departs from the airport terminal and is well signposted. In the city centre there are three stops, the train station, Nonneseter and Byparken. Byparken is a 5-minute walk to most of the hotels we recommend.

We took the bus from the airport to the centre and the light rail back. We preferred the bus as it was more comfortable and faster with more convenient stops.

Accommodation

We recommend choosing accommodation either in Bryggen, where all the recommended sites are within a 5-minute walk or else by the train station to have an easy start in the morning. The train station is a 15-minute walk to Bryggen through mostly pedestrianised streets and past a lake in the park.

Scandic Ørnen is next to the train station, the breakfast choice is fabulous and the area very quiet with more business people than tourists, rooms are clean and modern.

Thon Hotel Orion is in Bryggen and has lovely colourful rooms, some with fabulous views over the harbour, breakfast is great.

Radisson Blu Royal Hotel has typically stylish Scandinavian rooms and a perfect location in Bryggen, there’s a fitness suite including sauna and steam room.

Det Hanseatiske is a beautiful hotel in a 16th century building full of interesting nooks and crannies. Each room is unique, some have timber panelling and roll top baths. A few rooms are very small, and priced accordingly, the junior suites are worth spending more for.

Clarion Hotel Collection Havnekontoret is an elegant hotel in Bryggen with comfortable rooms, a gym, sauna and steam room and a tower to climb for views across the harbour. All rooms include breakfast, fika and a light three course dinner buffet. Fika is a Scandinavian tradition of tea and coffee with home-baking in the afternoons. If you will be there to take advantage of the included dinner this option provides excellent value.

City Hostel Bergen is located midway between the train station and Bryggen in a quiet spot. Private and shared rooms are available, facilities include a kitchen and spotless bathrooms.

The Cone is perfect if you like somewhere a little different, it’s a pine cone shaped cosy wooden treehouse suspended in the trees atop Mount Fløyen.

Wild Camping in a city centre? You can in Bergen. There are many idyllic places to pitch up on Mount Fløyen. The funicular railway, Fløibanen, has a great website with maps and details of the many marked trails so you can identify suitable spots before heading up the mountain. There are cabins here too.

Bergen Green City
Bergen – green city

Eating Out

As you’d expect from Norway’s second biggest city, Bergen has cafes, bars and restaurants catering to all tastes. As these come and go over time and many excellent online guides already exist, we won’t list them all here. 

For the experience as well as the food, we do recommend including a visit to the fish market. 

We arrived in Bergen at lunchtime and ate open sandwiches with delicious side salads at a small café. In the afternoon we enjoyed cappuccino and ice-cream by the lake on Mount Fløyen. In the evening we wandered from stall to stall at the fish market trying different delicacies.

Outside eating at Bergen Waterfront
Bergen waterfront

Costs based on two people

NOK100 = £7.50 on 1st February 2024

Hotel accommodation NOK1763

Bus from airport to city centre NOK298

Lunch NOK200

Fløibanen NOK360

Coffee and ice cream NOK160

Dinner NOK662

Tips for Today

Withdraw a small amount of cash from an ATM at the airport or city centre. Everywhere accepts cards but on the Rallarvegen cycle there are two remote cafes which may be unable to accept cards due to poor internet connection. £50 should be plenty for two people.


Buy gas / stove fuel for your Rallarvegen cycle as you can’t bring this on the plane. We bought ours from Outdoor Bergen who had all fuel types and were well stocked with any last-minute items you may need. There are plenty of outdoor shops in Bergen but this one is located between the station and Bryggen so was handy for us.

Day 2 Scenic Train Journey and Start of Cycle

Take the short walk to Bergen station to catch a late morning train to Haugastøl on the scenic Bergen line. The 82km Rallarvegen cycle route which you’ll follow for the next three days was originally constructed as a supply route for the construction of the Bergen line in the late 19th century. The Rallarvegen, also known as The Navvies’ Road, enabled materials to be brought by horse to this remote area. It served as a lifeline for the ‘rallare’ – the workers or ‘navvies’ who built the railway under extreme conditions.

Rallarvegen Track
Rallarvegen – lovely smooth track at the start of the cycle

Your train journey sets the scene perfectly for the adventure ahead as it travels through increasingly wild country. From Myrdal onwards the track follows the Rallarvegen, and you’ll catch your first tantalising glimpses of the route you’ll soon be riding. In under three hours you’ll arrive at Haugastøl station then it’s an 800m walk to reach Haugastøl Tourist Centre where your bikes will be waiting be for you. You can buy food and basic supplies here and enjoy delicious coffee and cake while loading up your panniers.

The route starts across the road and immediately launches you into in the middle of an awe-inspiring, expansive mountain landscape with huge rocks and beautiful lakes all around.  

There are endless places to wild camp on this section of the route so you can just stop when you feel ready.

Wild Camping
One of many idyllic wild camp spots along Rallarvegen

You can read full details in our Rallarvegen cycle article along with accommodation options if you don’t want to wild camp.

Costs based on two people

Train Bergen to Haugastøl NOK534

Lunch from hotel breakfast buffet NOK260

Haugastøl Tourist Centre bike and pannier hire for 3 days NOK3200

Coffee and cake NOK140

Tips for Today

Many hotels have the option to buy a take-away box which you can fill from the breakfast buffet for lunch. This is a great idea for taking on your train journey, certainly better than railway sandwiches as most buffets include smoked salmon, delicious cheese and fresh berries. 

Haugastøl Tourist Centre offer baggage transfer to Flåm so you don’t have to carry everything on your bike.

Day 3 Cycling Rallarvegen

Wake up to spectacular views today and enjoy a morning of easy cycling along good gravel tracks to reach Finse for lunch. Finse is a fascinating place with amazing views of glacier topped mountains across a deep blue lake. You can have lunch and buy basic supplies at Hotel Finse 1222.

FInse
Lake at Finse

Heading off again, the track becomes rougher in places and there’s a short steep climb but the highest point at 1343m is quickly reached. The views along this whole route are breath-taking and the relaxed pace allows plenty of time for frequent photo stops and short walks.

There are endless places for tonight’s wild camp, just be sure to pitch before the lake, Seltuftvatnet, as it’s harder to find good spots after this. www.ut.no is a fabulous resource with zoomable large-scale maps to select potential camping spots in advance. You can use the many trails shown on the map to leave the Rallarvegen route if you want remoter camps but it’s not busy here, we didn’t see anyone else after pitching each night.

Rallarvegen Bridge
Rallarvegen bridge at Klevagjelet

Costs based on two people

Coffee and waffles NOK160

Day 4 Cycling to Flåm village

There’s a big change in scenery today as you head downhill twisting through a narrow gorge, waterfalls tumbling all around you. Many people think today is the most scenic of all.

You’ll reach a hotel at Vatnahalsen around lunchtime and then the real fun starts, 21 steep hairpin bends which whisk you down 835m through increasingly lush, green, wild flower covered mountains. Finally, your cycle ends in the charming fjord village of Flåm where you can return your bikes and enjoy a well-earned meal in a lovely restaurant.  

Rallarvegen Wild Flora
Beautiful wild flowers along Rallarvegen

Accommodation

Flåm is a small village centred on the harbour, everything is within easy walking distance. Accommodation here gets booked up well in advance, but the excellent campsite will always fit in cyclists with a tent.

Freitheim Hotel is a historic hotel perfectly placed in this picturesque village. Rooms are charming if a little tired.

Flåm Camping and Hostel is a large, well-managed site with excellent facilities including kitchens, washing machines and a drier for wet outdoor gear.

Flåm Camping and Hostel
Flåm Camping and Hostel

Eating Out

Flåm has a selection of places to eat and there’s a supermarket and bakery too. The stone-baked pizza van outside Flåm Camping is good.

Flåmsbrygga Hotel has a restaurant, café and brew pub and offer gluten free and vegan options.

Costs based on two people

Coffee and waffles NOK150

Flåm Camping including showers and laundry NOK540

Dinner NOK530

Day 5 Spend time in beautiful Flåm

Tonight you will stay in Gudvangen, as this is where your kayak trip starts tomorrow morning. Gudvangen is 15-minutes from Flåm by bus. We suggest catching the bus late afternoon / early evening and spending today around Flåm. 

Options include taking the world famous Flåm Railway or Flåmsbana which climbs 865m through 20 tunnels up to Myrdal, it’s the steepest railway in Europe and provides exceptional views.

You can return by Flåmsbana or take the zipwire down for a birds eye view of yesterday’s 21 hairpin bends.

Rallarvegen Hairpin Bends
Rallarvegen at the top of the hairpin bends

Learn about life as a Viking in Gudvangen’s Viking Valley.

There are some nice short walks in the area, we recommend Brekkefossen for close-up views of this stunning waterfall.

Transport

There are two buses to Gudvangen, both departing from the bus stops in the centre of the village. If the timings suit you, opt for the Vy bus as the shuttle bus connects with cruise ships and are likely to be busy.

Flam Waterfall
Flåm waterfall

Accommodation

Gudvangen is a tiny place centred on a large hotel and restaurant and the kayak centre; accommodation choices are few.

Gudvangen Fjordtell has a wide range of rooms. The Viking rooms look fantastic but be aware they have glass ceilings, so you’ll need an eye mask to sleep well here in the light summer nights, also people can walk past your window, so you’ll need to shut the curtains for privacy. For these reasons we’d opt for an apartment or double room even though they are decorated in a more standard style.

Gudvangen Camping is a lovely friendly site with a homely feel and small café but unfortunately it is next to a road. Although it’s quiet at night, traffic noise becomes annoying from early in the morning. If you are staying here, ask the bus driver to drop you off on the corner before the bus heads into Gudvangen as it saves you a walk. Follow the sign to take a footpath to the camp site so you don’t have to walk along the busy road. You can’t book in advance for tents, but they will always fit you in.

Kayak Stop
Kayaks on Nærøyfjord

Eating Out

Gudvangen Fjordtell has a selection of cafes and restaurants catering for cruise passengers during the day, but they are quiet in the evening. Food is good but expensive. Viking Valley has a café open until 18.00. Joker Supermarket do fast food to take away and have a good selection for anyone camping.

Costs based on two people

Bus to Gudvangen NOK160

Gudvangen Fjordtell NOK4815

Day 6 Start two day kayak trip

If staying at either hotel in Gudvangen, stroll down to the kayak centre for 10am, if you are camping, they will collect you and bring you to the centre, just ask when booking.

Ready To Go Kayaking
Suzanne ready to go kayaking

You’ll meet your guide and fellow paddlers and discuss the exciting plans for the next two days over hot drinks and pastries before heading out to pack your gear and start the next stage of your adventure. You can read a detailed description of this kayak trip.

You’ll paddle along Nærøyfjord, a UNESCO listed fjord selected for its extreme beauty. It exceeds all expectations. Nærøyfjord is the wildest arm of Sognefjord, Norway’s longest. The mountains tower over 1000m above you on either side as you paddle along in silent awe, paddling is definitely the best way to experience this majestic landscape.

Kayak Paddles Up
Kayak – paddles up

You’ll pull in to a scenic bay for a fabulous lunch spread, then continue to your camp site to spend a perfect night around a camp fire on a perfect beach immersed in this tremendous environment. 

You can do this trip without a guide if you have some kayaking experience. The company will plan a route with you and show you where you can stop. 

Kayak Campsite
Wild camping on our kayak trip

Costs based on two people

Two-day guided kayak trip NOK8536

Tips for Today

Pack a change of clothes for this evening including a warm layer. Bring a pair of gloves or kayaking to prevent blisters, cycling gloves are ideal.

Day 7 Kayak along stunning fjord

Awake to ‘that view’ and enjoy a delicious breakfast cooked by your guide. Take an energising dip in the fjord and continue your paddling adventure, the scenery continues to impress, and you may be accompanied by dolphins and seals.

Kayaking View
Wake up to this, the view from our tent

The trip ends with hot drinks, cakes and plenty of happy memories. There’s time for a shower if you wish before the guides drop you off in Voss. 

If you want a night in a proper bed and dinner in a restaurant, you can stay overnight in Voss and collect your hire car in the morning. Otherwise, collect your car and take a scenic 30-minute drive over a mountain pass to Myrkdalen which is on the route you will be driving tomorrow. There are great places to wild camp here, our spot felt a million miles from anywhere but was just a 2-minute walk from the road which you couldn’t see or hear.

myrkdalen camp
Myrkdalen wild camping

Transport

The kayak company will take you to Voss. If you’re collecting your hire car tonight, ask them to drop you at Skulestadmo, a suburb on the way to the centre.

The only rental company in Voss is Hertz, in the Nissan showroom. Car hire from Bergen airport is expensive, hiring from Voss has a much lower daily rate. Hiring from Bergen also leaves the car unused for most of this trip and would result in backtracking. Hiring from Voss makes excellent use of public transport for the first half of the trip whilst giving you freedom to explore in the second half.

Electric cars are often cheaper to hire in Norway however if you plan to wild camp for the rest of your trip, we don’t recommend them but if you are staying at a campsite or other accommodation then charging points are available.

Hertz email you a code on the day the hire starts so you can collect your key from a key box next to a side door of the Nissan showroom, not the main door facing the road. It took us a while to find it!

Costs based on two people

Car hire for five days NOK3588

Accommodation

Scandic Voss is next to the train station and bus stop right in the centre of town so handy for an overnight. Rooms are typical Scandinavian style.

Myrkdalen Wild Camping – there are plenty of places along the road once you have passed the souvenir shop. Park in any of the large laybys and walk to get privacy away from the road. There’s a great sense of remoteness here.

Wilderness Views At 23.00 Myrkdalen
Wilderness views at Myrkdalen, taken at 23.00, bedtime!

Myrkdalen Resort Hotel is a ski hotel so feels somewhat deserted in summer. Large, modern rooms and bathrooms and a great location, near our recommended wild camping spot.

There Are Plenty Of Place To Park And Camp In Myrkdalen
There are plenty of places to park and camp in Myrkdalen

Tips for Today

There are three large supermarkets next to the car hire so stock up for the next few days and buy something delicious for tonight’s wild camp.

Day 8 Scenic drive and ferry to Jostedalsbreen National Park

It’s a 35-minute drive to Vangsnes where you catch the ferry to Hella or Dragsvik. Go on deck for unmissable views as you cross spectacular Sognefjord, the ‘King of the Fjords’ and Norway’s longest and deepest. 

Picturesque Views
Picturesque views on today’s drive

Your destination is Jostedalsbreen National Park, a varied landscape in the wildest part of southern Norway and home to mainland Europe’s largest glacier.

There are many ways to spend the next few days, here are our three recommendations based on how much energy you want to expend, or not. 

Very Active Option

If you want to take part in lots of activities, head straight to Jostedalen and spend the next four nights here. The fastest route takes 1hr 30. Leaving the ferry at Hella, head to Sogndalsfjøra, then Gaupne where you turn off into the heart of Jostedalsbreen National Park. 

At the National Park’s Breheim Centre, ‘Breheim Senteret’ you can book an array of outdoor adventures including kayaking to get up close with glaciers, rafting, guided hikes, glacier activities, ice climbing and canyoning. There are miles of trails to discover on your own and you can get maps and route advice from the centre’s knowledgeable staff.

Briksdal Glacier
Briksdal glacier

Moderately Active Option

Take a longer scenic drive of around 4 hours to reach Jostedalsbreen. Stay on the ferry until Dragsvik then follow one of Norway’s designated scenic routes, Gaularfjellet, to Skei.

Windy Roads
Winding roads along the scenic route, Gaularfjellet

From Skei, take a 5-minute detour north for great views of Brikdalsbreen glacier followed by another short detour to visit the stunning waterfront villages of Mundal and Fjaerland for superlative fjord views and a visit to the Norwegian Glacier Museum.

Mundal is a book town and second-hand books are, literally, everywhere, tucked into sheds, secreted in tiny cabinets and old chests as well as in bookshops and the cafe. 

For a very local experience, take this one-hour guided walking tour of the book town.

There are many splendid viewpoints along this route and plenty of signed walks too. We found a fabulous traditional Norwegian café which had the best cakes of our whole trip. It was just before the lovely walk to the waterfall, Likholefossen. 

From Fjaerland, head back to the main road and onto Sogndalsfjora then continue to Gaupne and Jostadalen.

You could spend a night around Fjaerland and continue to Jostedalen the next day. Fjaerland is a beautiful village and offers bike hire, walks and RIB trips.

Fjaerland
Fjaerland

Relaxed Option

Drive a circuit around Jostedalsbreen National Park, visiting many picturesque villages and including a trip up the Loen Skylift for expansive views, fabulous walks, via ferrata and ziplines.

Loen Skylift
Loen Skylift

Follow the moderately active option above, overnighting around Fjaerland. The next day, drive north to Loen, 1hr 30, then take the Loen Skylift to enjoy high-level walks on Mount Hoven. Head back to the attractive village of Olden then take the dead-end road to Brikdalsbre where there are many walks, water sports, and places to stay.

Olden Old Church
Olden old church

The next day, it’s an incredibly scenic drive, 5hr 30, from Brikdalsbre to Jostedalen via the Gamle Strynefjellsvegen and Sognefjellet scenic routes which take you across Norway’s highest mountain pass. There’s time for plenty of photos and a short walk or kayak too.

Spend the final day in Jostedalsbreen National Park doing the activity of your choice.

Transport

The ferry from Vangsnes runs roughly every half hour. It takes 20 minutes to reach Hella, then continues for another 15-minutes to Dragsvik. There’s no need to book. Approaching Vangsnes, the ferry lanes are clearly marked. The cost is around NOK80 but you don’t pay on the ferry, there’s number plate recognition so the car hire company will receive a bill and then charge your credit card.

You’re unlikely to need to fill up your car until you return it, but even small towns have petrol stations. Most towns have EV charging stations as do hotels and most campsites.

Accommodation

Fjaerland Fjordstove Hotel – a traditional hotel, full of character where you’ll receive a very warm welcome and superb food. We love it here, book early as it’s popular.

Wild Camping near Fjaerland – from Mundal village heading south, turn right just before the church and pass some hytte (cabins). Continue up this track and you’ll find many idyllic spots along the river and tucked into the woods, some with views of glaciers.

Wild Camping Fjaerland
Wild camping Fjaerland

Wild Camping in Stardalen – just north of Skei, take the turn on the right to Stardalen. Follow the road until near the end and turn off at the sign for Høyseth Camping. There’s a private road on the left with a small charge to drive up it, you can pay by credit card the next day as you are unlikely to have a phone signal here. Continue up and you’ll see places to park safely, wander along the river and you’ll find some lovely spots. Walks to the glacier start at the end of the road.

Høyseth Camping – offer simple cabins and camping in a lovely quiet setting with friendly owners. You can buy some local produce here; the strawberries are delicious. Highly recommended for a peaceful stay.

Wild Camping on Mount Hoven – you can take the Loen Skylift to the top then walk to find a perfect place to camp on the mountain.

Briksdalbre Campsites – there are several campsites along this valley, all offering a similar experience, situated on the lake front with splendid views and good facilities. Most sites don’t accept pre-booking and can fill up fast with campervans and motorhomes in July and August, but they will almost always find room for a tent, just get there early if you want to stay at a particular site. There’s nowhere to wild camp here as the land is all either farmed or too steep.

Many Lakeside Campsites Line the Valley As Seen From loen Skylift
Many lakeside campsites line the valley, viewed far below from Loen Skylift

Each site offers fresh bread in the morning, fire pits, indoor and outdoor cooking and seating areas. Many hire kayaks / canoes / rowing boats / SUPs / bikes.

Stand out sites for us are:

Olden Camping – their well-appointed cabins are excellent, very clean and modern. 

Oldevatn Camping – offer free canoes, rowing boat, bikes and SUPs.

Gryta Camping – include free use of kayaks, canoes and rowing boats. They have a lovely seating area if you want to be social, and friendly goats.

Melkevoll Camping – this is our favourite because you can tuck your tent in behind a rock or other hiding place whereas most sites in Norway are geared up primarily for campervans and motorhomes, with tents sharing the same open areas with little privacy. They also have weekly yoga sessions, a sauna and natural ice pool filled with glacial water, this was very welcome after a long day out in the hills. The buildings are at one with nature, we loved it here.

Hjelle Hotel – if you are taking the relaxed option, get a head start on your drive and spend a comfortable night here. There’s a choice of motel rooms offering excellent value and pricier rooms in the main building. Stunning views, historic building, lovely hosts and great food.

Jostedal Camping – this is the place to stay if you want to line up one activity after another and not spend any time driving. A fabulous site with full amenities offering camping and cosy cabins. Some activities start right from the campsite and the Breheim Centre is 3km away.

Costs based on two people

Ferry NOK80

Lunch NOK390

Coffee and cake NOK140

Days 9, 10 and 11 Activities in Jostedalsbreen National Park

Three full days to follow your chosen itinerary.

We took the relaxed option and went book-hunting in Mundal, visited the Glacier Museum in Fjaerland and had lots of short walks to scenic viewpoints, wild camping on the first night. The next day we took the Loen Skylift and had a long walk at the top, then stayed at Hjelle hotel. Then we drove the final stretch of the scenic circuit to Jostedalen, stayed at Jostedal Camping and had a fantastic, guided glacier walk on the last day. Tours are also available from Jostedalen Breførarlag.

Costs based on two people

Loen Skylift NOK1190

Hjelle Hotel 1-night NOK1777

Jostedal camping 2 nights NOK700

Glacier hike NOK1820

Dinner NOK668

Wild Berries For Breakfast
Wild berries for breakfast

Day 12 drive to Voss and take train back to Bergen

Today it’s time to drive back to Voss, return your car, and catch the train to Bergen. There are two routes to Voss, both take 3hr 30.

For both routes, drive to Sogndalsfjora, 1hr. The first option is to return the way you came, from Sogndalsfjora, drive to Hella, take the ferry to Vangsnes then continue to Voss.

For the other option, from Sogndalsfjora head to Mannheller and catch the ferry to Fodnes, then drive through the Lærdal tunnel, which at 24.5km is the world’s longest. If you have time, skip the tunnel and take the Norwegian scenic route, Aurlandsfjellet, from Lærdalsøyri to Aurlandsvangen, then continue on the main road to Flåm and Voss.

The scenic route adds 20 minutes in drive time but allow at least an hour if you can as you’ll want to stop and take in the views. Stegastein viewpoint is a popular photo stop just before Flåm and can be busy with cruise passengers who are bussed up here. It’s still worth stopping though, it’s an incredible viewing platform high above the fjord that you kayaked along a week ago. Before Stegastein, you are likely to have the road to yourself. 

When you arrive in Voss, there’s a petrol station next to Hertz car hire, fill up here, park your car at Hertz and drop the keys in. If Hertz are closed, drop the keys into the petrol station. You’ll need to cross the busy road to the bus stop opposite and take the bus to Voss station.

Myrkdalen
One of many waterfalls on the route through Myrkdalen

Transport

The ferry from Hella to Vangsnes runs approximately every 30 minutes and takes 20 minutes.

The ferry from Mannheller to Fodnes runs approximately every 20 minutes and takes 15 minutes.

There is no need to book, your car hire company will charge your credit card.

Bus 964 runs frequently from opposite Hertz in Skulestadmo, Voss to Voss station and takes 14 minutes. Stops are announced on the bus. For timetables, check www.skyss.no

Trains from Voss to Bergen run approximately hourly and take 1hr 15. You can buy a ticket from the machine on the platform when you arrive. Check times at www.vy.no

From Bergen you can get the bus, Flybussen, or the light rail, Bybanen, direct to the airport from the train station.

Costs based on two people

Ferry NOK80

Fuel for car NOK1220

Bus Skulestadmo, Voss to Voss Station NOK80

Train Voss to Bergen NOK514

Light rail Bergen to airport NOK80

Top Tips

Book the guided kayak trip first as these depart on set dates, then book the rest of your trip around this starting with accommodation, then any must do activities, car rental and bike hire. Public transport will be available so book this last.

The Bergen Card offers great value if you are staying for an extra night but it’s not worth getting if you are following this itinerary.

Making lunch from the breakfast buffet is an economical way to enjoy a healthy and filling lunch, the price was around NOK75 per person. Perfect for active days and travelling as well as being a great way to reduce food waste.

Checklist

This checklist covers everything that you need to book for your trip.

The list is in date order but book your kayak trip first as these depart on set dates, then book everything else around it.

To DoLinks / Insert name of Accommodation ChosenDone
Book accommodation for first night in Bergen  
Book train from Bergen to Haugastølwww.vy.no   
Book bike and pannier hire from Haugastøl Tourist Centrehttps://www.haugastol.no/en/bike-rental   
Book accommodation in Finse if you aren’t wild campinghttps://www.hotelfinse1222.no/   
Book accommodation in Vatnahalsen if you aren’t wild campinghttps://uk.hotels.com/ho1190163296/vatnahalsen-h-yfjellshotell-aurland-norway/   
Book accommodation in Flåm  
Book kayak trip from Gudvangenhttps://nordicventures.com/norway-tours/aurlandsfjord-naeroyfjord-2-day-tour/ 
Book hire car from Vosswww.hertz.co.uk/p/car-hire/norway/voss 
Book accommodation in Jostedalsbreen National Park if not wild camping  
Book activities in Jostedalsbreen National Parkhttps://jostedalsbreen.no/en/ https://www.icetroll.com/adventures/ www.bfl.no 
Book train from Voss to Bergenwww.vy.no   
Book accommodation for last night in Bergen if staying on  
Book flights / trains to and from Bergen  
Click to download a printable PDF of the checklist

What To Pack

Camping Gear

Tent

Sleeping bag

Sleeping mat

Camping stove

Saucepan / kettle / sporks / bowls

Backpack

Water bottles and filter

Drybags for your clothes and sleeping bag

Power bank

Toilet trowel and paper

Folding sit mats

Shampoo bar

Clothes

Waterproof jacket and trousers

Trainers or trail shoes for walking and cycling

Walking boots which can take crampons if you are doing a glacier hike (crampons will be provided)

Swimwear

Microfibre towel for swimming and camp site showers

Base layer for sleeping in

Hat and gloves

Warm layer – fleece or down jacket

Buff or eye mask for light nights

Gloves for cycling and kayaking

Cycling shorts

Shorts / leggings for kayaking

Sunglasses and retainer strap for kayaking

Suncream

Loen View
Loen view

Useful Information

For essential information on Norway, see our country page

www.ut.no – large-scale maps showing Rallarvegen route and walks, bike rides, ski tours, paddles and cabins to overnight in across Norway

www.vy.no – trains

www.skyss.no – buses 

www.hertz.co.uk/p/car-hire/norway/voss  – car hire in Voss

www.norled.no – ferries

www.nasjonaleturistveger.no/en/routes/?showAsList=false – Norwegian scenic routes

https://jostedalsbreen.no/en/ – Jostedalsbreen National Park

https://www.icetroll.com/adventures/ – glacier hikes and guided activities

www.bfl.no – glacier hikes and guided activities

https://en.visitbergen.com/ – Bergen tourist information

www.yr.no – most accurate weather forecasts

Moss

We hope we’ve inspired you to plan and book your own trip to the Norwegian fjords and would love to hear your thoughts below. Please share your photos with us when you get there.

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