Welcome to the most breathtaking Norwegian cycling experience – The Rallarvegen. It’s located amidst the stunning landscapes of Norway, and is an iconic cycling route. It takes you from the high mountain plateau down to the picturesque Aurlandsfjord. The route combines history, incredible scenery, and exhilarating terrain.
Widely considered Norway’s best cycle, Rallarvegen is achievable for any level of cyclist. It makes a great introduction to bike packing by splitting the trip over two or three days. Experienced cyclists will enjoy this as a one-day trip.
We provide practical details on where to stay and eat, how to get there and where to hire bikes. There are also tips on essentials to bring along, ensuring your cycling experience in Norway is truly unforgettable.
This cycle trip formed part of an 11 night/ 12 day tour of the Norwegian Fjords. We have written up a full itinerary. We have also compared this self-booked trip with the best available group tours.
| Total distance | 82km |
| Total ascent | 644m |
| Total descent | 1,632m |
| Start point elevation – Haugastøl | 1,000m |
| Highest point elevation – Fagervatn | 1,343m |
| End point elevation – Flåm | 2m |
CONTENTS
Note: The estimated 5hr duration on the Google Map is based on an average speed of 16km/h, which is much quicker than you can expect to achieve.
About The Route
Rallarvegen, or ‘the Navvies’ Road’, was constructed in the late 19th century as a supply route enabling materials to be brought by horse to this remote area for the construction of the Bergen Line railway. It served as a lifeline for the ‘rallare’ – the workers or ‘navvies’ who toiled to build the railway under challenging conditions. Today, the route offers modern-day adventurers a unique chance to pedal through history.
Situated in the heart of Norway, the Rallarvegen stretches from the high mountain plateau of Haugastøl to the charming fjord village of Flåm on the dramatic Aurlandsfjord. This 82km waymarked route takes you through some of the most remote and picturesque parts of the country, offering a truly authentic Norwegian experience.
Typical Rallarvegen signposts
The Rallarvegen is easily divided into sections so the route can be cycled over two or three days. The entire route is jaw-dropping, and we think it’s best cycled slowly to savour every moment. We recommend having one or two overnight stops depending on your cycling ability and how long you’d like to spend exploring the area further. Accommodation options and details of how to get to the route are provided further on.
The most popular way to divide the route is to cycle from Haugastøl to Finse on day one, then onto Flåm on day two, if you’d like to cycle over three days, add an extra night at Vatnahalsen. If you only have one day and don’t want to cycle the whole 82km, start at Finse or Myrdal and finish at Flåm.
| Haugastøl to Finse | 27km |
| Finse to Hallingskeid | 21km |
| Hallingskeid to Vatnahalsen / Myrdal | 16km |
| Vatnahalsen / Myrdal to Flåm | 18km |
The route is almost always cycled from Haugastøl to Flåm as it’s mostly downhill. To cycle up from Flåm is a significant undertaking due to the steep ascent and is best left to very fit and experienced cyclists who would relish this challenge.
We started from Haugastøl at 16.00 on our first day and cycled for just over an hour before pitching our tent. On the second day we cycled to Finse then over the highest point and down past Fagernut. On our third day we enjoyed the long descent down to scenic Flåm. This worked perfectly for us, we cycled slowly, taking time to absorb our surroundings, stopping often to examine curious plants and take lots of photos, we threw a few snowballs, enjoyed long lunches, took short walks and ate quite a few waffles.
Route Sections
Haugastøl to Finse 27km, 3-4 hours, 240m ascent, 15m descent
The landscape along this first section of The Rallarvegen is mountain plateau offering wide, open views with lots of lakes.
Start from Haugastøl Tourist Centre where you can hire bikes and purchase basic food and cycling supplies. They have accommodation and a café and are located 1km from Haugastol station.
It’s easy peddling to start with, along a private tarmac road used by hytte owners, so you may meet an occasional car. The hytte, (huts or cabins) are an integral part of Norwegian life and are dotted everywhere. Norwegians love to be outdoors and the family hytte enables them to spend weekends and holidays immersed in nature.
After 12km the surface changes to gravel, still giving excellent cycling. This section is a very gradual incline with a few short ups and downs easing you into your adventure. There’s a small café at Oksabotn about 17km from Haugastøl. We camped about 1km before the cafe spending a beautiful sunny evening beside a stream and lake. Occasionally, brightly coloured freight trains would rumble past on the far shore of the lake reminding us of the area’s heritage.
Oksabotn is an ancient summer farm, there were some very friendly sheep posing for photos outside the cafe. We hadn’t seen a soul since pitching our tent the previous evening so were surprised to find six bikes leaning against the tiny café walls, their owners perching on rocks and small wooden benches sipping coffees and apple juice.
Continuing the route, you’ll pass through short tunnels and see snow screens which keep the tracks clear of snow. Scattered signs along the route explain what some of the infrastructure is for or provide historical or cultural insights. The signs are in Norwegian only so a translation app would be useful if you are interested in learning more.
Arriving at Finse, you are now in the Hardangervidda National Park. It’s not hard to be impressed by the magnificent mountains surrounding you and the view of the Hardangerjøkulen glacier. Glacial evidence is all around with huge plough stones, soil tongues and areas of permafrost. Plenty of great walks start at Finse, more info is provided at the end. For a short leg-stretch, head across the long wooden bridge reaching across the water shortly before Finse station, you’ll be rewarded with great views of the glacier, lakes and mountains, return the same way.
Finse is Norway’s highest railway station and has no road access. It’s a fascinating collection of buildings, it’s a bit of a stretch to call it a village. Aside from the station, there’s Finse 1222 hotel, 1222 references the height above sea level; the Alpine Research Center which attracts biologists, geologists, geophysicists and other researchers and the Norwegian Trekking Association (DNT) Finsehytta where you can stay. It’s also home to the Rallar Museum displaying the tools used during the railway’s construction as well as a couple of snowblower locomotives and explanations about how the tracks are kept snow free during the long winters. Definitely worth a visit.
Haugastøl to Finse was the busiest section of the Rallarvegen, we were here on the last weekend in July, so it was to be expected. There were a few walkers, but most people were on bikes. They were a real mix which was lovely to see, families with young children, people staying in hytte out for their daily exercise, many on e-bikes, tourists like us on hired bikes and a few serious cyclists. It was never unpleasantly busy and once past the tarmac section at the start there were fewer people. Aside from the cyclists at Oksabotn people were scarce between here and Finse.
Approaching Finse it got busier again with a guided walking group heading off to the glacier and people who had arrived by train to enjoy a few hours in this unique area before catching a later train back. There were plenty of walkers and cyclists too, the hotel was busy with a fascinating assortment of folk, we recommend stopping for lunch to get a sense of the big adventures that can start here.
Finse to Hallingskeid 21km, 3 hours, 186m ascent, 291m descent
After leaving the buildings of Finse behind there’s a short steep climb followed by an undulating stretch with larger gravel and some short rough patches, it’s still all cyclable though.
You are entering a more remote area now, and you can feel the shift. This is the southernmost place in Europe with an arctic climate, there are no hytte here. The scenery is starkly beautiful, bleak, wild and desolate. The forecast was for heavy rain starting late afternoon and we could see the clouds gathering in the huge expansive sky. We’d been lucky so far having had warm sunshine all the way but the average annual temperature at Finse is -2C.
The highest part of the Rallarvegen between Finse and Hallingskeid receives the most snowfall and it isn’t cleared in this section so there are usually patches of snow that you’ll need to carry your bike over until mid / end of July, you can catch a train from Finse to Hallingskeid to avoid this. Check this report about conditions on the route before you set off. www.haugastol.no/en/Rallarvegen-report
You’ll quickly reach Fagervatn, which at 1343m is the highest point of the Rallarvegen, it felt like quite an achievement reaching the signpost. From the high point it’s just a few minutes downhill until Fagernut guard’s house which now serves as a small café. The walls at Fagernut are adorned with old black and white photos of the area and the people who worked on the railway.
After stopping at Fagernut for coffee and waffles, we donned waterproofs as the rain was imminent now and the temperature had dropped quite a few degrees. Our map indicated that the next few kilometres before Hallingskeid station had limited decent spots to camp, being steeper and rockier here so we decided to camp early and attempt to keep our gear dry.
This segment had recently been resurfaced with excellent gravel, so we flew along for a few minutes until we came to a section of track that had been washed away and had a temporary surface of large rocks. Thanks to the change in pace, we spotted a lovely flat grassy patch near a tiered waterfall and a river. We set up camp a safe distance from the river, in case the rain was as bad as forecast and had just got the stove on for tea when torrential rain started. Perfect timing.
The rain stopped after an hour, so we took the opportunity to wander around this watery landscape, hopping across bogs and streams and studying the fascinating alpine plants and lichens. What at first glance appeared to be a barren landscape was, on closer inspection, a soft and springy carpet of intriguing miniature plants festooned with berries and tiny flowers.
We saw a grand total of four people after leaving Finse, two cyclists recording a video of themselves coming over the highest point and another two cyclists in the café at Fagernut.
Hallingskeid to Vatnahalsen / Myrdal 16km, 2 hours, 198m ascent, 487m descent
We were looking forward to seeing one of the most scenic sections of the Rallarvegen today, Klevagjelet, where boundless cascades of water rush through a narrow gorge. It should be spectacular after last night’s torrential rain. We set off past a disused tunnel blocked completely by snow at either end, marvelling again at the efforts required to keep the Bergen line clear.
The track was variable along this section.
On reaching Hallingskeid there’s an obvious grassy area where annual summer markets were held until the Black Death in the 1300s. Now, Hallingskeid consists of the station, lots of hytte, a DNT cabin and some fabulous, marked trails if you have time to stay longer. Despite all the hytte, there were few people around.
After Hallingskeid, it becomes greener, and the snow patches are replaced with sinuous waterfalls. The track is smooth, and it descends, gently at first, becoming steeper as it twists and turns before squeezing onto a ledge, hovering above the raging water below.
Everything we had learned before our visit warned us that this stunning section at Klevagjelet was dangerous and there are plenty of signs to reinforce this as you reach this narrow section.
There are a few barriers to stop you plunging down the hill on the sharpest bends but mostly it’s unfenced and there are some steep drops. However, the track is always at least a car’s width so if you keep your speed low it’s fine. It’s no hardship to go slowly here as it’s one of the most spectacular sections of the Rallarvegen.
The thunderous roar of water stilled momentarily as we traversed one of the sturdy wooden bridges crossing the river. Grey mist swirled, and the rain continued, making this section incredibly atmospheric.
Once past this intense section at Klevagjelet, the route continues to descend, steeper now and still with a great surface. As you lose height, the mountains become much greener and the landscape softens, finally reaching the tree line whilst whizzing downhill, exhilarated.
The route runs alongside a picturesque lake surrounded by trees, far gentler than the wild lakes higher up. The gradient eases and the few buildings of Vatnahalsen come into sight. We felt as though the best was perhaps behind us, but there was still plenty more to come, this route keeps on delivering, right to the very end.
At Vatnahalsen the Rallarvegen continues down to Flåm but there are alternative route options from here. Myrdal station is 2km away just off the Rallarvegen and is the intersection between the Bergen line railway and the wonderful Flåmsbana, Europe’s steepest railway. You can end your cycle at Myrdal and take this scenic railway to Flåm. Day trippers from Flåm can take the train up to Myrdal, hire a bike on the platform and cycle back to Flåm. It isn’t recommended to cycle the other way as it’s an incredibly steep 835m climb up.
Another option is to take Scandinavia’s longest zipline, 1381m long and dropping 305m from Vatnahalsen down to Kårdalen, whisking you along at speeds of up to 100km per hour. You can even send your bike and luggage down the zipline to continue cycling on to Flåm.
We kept to the main route as we didn’t want to miss out on the infamous 21 hairpin bends, which are an integral part of the Rallarvegen. We felt justified in our decision not to subject ourselves to flying down the wire at 100km/hr in driving rain. If you’d rather fly than cycle, here’s the information, it did look fun. https://www.flaamzipline.no/kopi-av-hjem-1
Refreshed after a waffle stop at Vatnahalsen Hotel, we headed off past the snowmobile parking area, this is a popular winter hotel, and cycled the kilometre or so to the top of the zipline, past the junction where you turn off to reach Myrdal.
Vatnahalsen – Flåm: 18 km, 3 hours, 23m ascent, 835m descent27km 348m ascent
The ultimate finale to this thrilling 82km adventure is 17km of downhill, starting with 21 incredibly steep hairpin bends, best walked to prevent your brakes from overheating.
There’s plenty to look at whilst negotiating the bends, trains cross high above on impossibly narrow ledges, zipline riders shoot across the sky overhead, water gushes, pours and jets down the steep mountains finding countless routes through vegetation so lush, it feels like you have arrived in a different country.
It’s a complete contrast to everything we’ve seen so far with brightly coloured wildflowers, ferns and vivid green moss all around.
At the bottom of the hairpins, we mount our bikes once again and soon reach Kårdalen, an area known for Rallarrosa Mountain Farm where you can buy tasty goat’s cheese. The goats here aren’t fenced in but the cars parked outside the houses are, to stop the goats climbing on them, the goats are everywhere and they’re very inquisitive. You are back on tarmac now for the rest of the cycle and although the roads are quiet it’s easy to forget about traffic having been away from it for a couple of days, so take care.
Continuing this marvellous downhill run through gorgeous Flåmsdalen, you find yourself between the near vertical mountain sides that signify the Norwegian fjords. All too soon pretty Flåm church is reached and you cycle alongside the river and over a bridge into the village. It’s a culture shock after three days away in remote country but the cafes are a welcome sight. Finally, the first view of spectacular Aurlandsfjord, it’s everything we’d hoped it would be and more. Majestic mountains seemingly encircle the crystal-clear water, a few kayakers head towards shore and a yacht moors up for the night, just perfect.
Prepare to be spellbound by the ever-changing scenery that defines The Rallarvegen. From the high mountain plateau of Haugastøl to the breathtaking fjords at Flåm, each kilometre is a visual feast. The juxtaposition of tranquil lakes, roaring waterfalls, and glacier-capped peaks makes every pedal stroke a delight.
Best Time To Cycle The Rallarvegen
The route is usually clear of snow from mid-July until the end of September. In early July it’s likely that you’ll need to catch a train between Finse and Hallingskeid to avoid snow on this section, check here for route conditions: https://www.haugastol.no/en/rallarvegen-report.
Many businesses in Norway shut down for the month of July and most Norwegians spend the holiday in their hytte, consequently July is the busiest month. August weekends are busy too. September is quieter and the colours wonderful, the risk of snow increases towards the end of the month.
If you want to experience part of the route earlier or later in the year, you can get a train to Myrdal, hire a bike on the platform and cycle down to Flåm from 1st June until 30th September or cycle from Haugastøl to Finse returning by train from around mid-June until the end of September.
Temperatures in July and August are typically around 5C during the day at Finse at 20C at Flåm but vary widely. We had 18C at Finse and 10C at Flåm.
Getting To The Rallarvegen
Reaching the start at Haugastøl is straightforward. Trains from Oslo and Bergen connect to Haugastøl. For those flying into Norway, Oslo and Bergen airports serve as major international gateways. A scenic train ride to Haugastøl sets the tone for the adventure that lies ahead.
Book trains at vy.no and prebook if you are bringing your own bike.
Rallarvegen Bike Rental
Rental options are available at Haugastøl, Finse, Myrdal and Flåm. All the companies allow you to return bikes in Flåm.
Renting from Haugastøl Tourist Centre is the easiest option. They have bikes designed specifically for the Rallarvegen which we hired, and they handled the terrain very well. They also have 29’’ mountain bikes, e-bikes, children’s bikes, tag-a-longs and trailers.
Panniers are available too, but you’ll need to bring your own helmet or buy one here as they aren’t available to hire. There are hundreds of bikes here but advance booking in July and August is advised. Baggage transfer is available to Finse or Flåm and they also hire bikes at both these locations. https://www.haugastol.no/en/bike-rental
If you’re starting from Finse, Hotel Finse 1222 offer a good selection of mountain bikes.
From Myrdal, you can hire a bike and helmet from Cafe Rallaren at the station. They also offer baggage transfer to Flåm
Accommodation On The Rallarvegen
Camping
You can wild camp responsibly almost anywhere in Norway if you follow some simple rules which include staying at least 150m away from the nearest house or cabin. We prefer camping well out of sight of any habitation and this was easy here. This ‘Allermansland’, or All Man’s Land right allows you to roam on most land and enabled us to enjoy some magical camping spots on this trip.
Along the Rallarvegen, wild camping is prohibited for the first 13km from Haugastol to Tungevatnet and around Finse, to protect the privacy of hytte owners. You can cycle to the other side of the lake in Finse towards Finsehytta and camp here where you can also use the toilets and showers at Finsehytta.
There was no shortage of suitable places to camp right until the hairpin bends towards the end. After here, you could find a spot tucked in the trees if you needed to although this last stretch really isn’t appropriate for camping as it’s either vertical or farmland with houses dotted around.
Norway is expensive for accommodation, so paying to check in a bag full of camping gear on our flight was very economical, costing less than one night in a hostel and giving us the freedom to roam as we pleased.
Haugastøl
Haugastøl Tourist Centre have comfortable apartments sleeping 2-6 and also beds in clean, modern dorms. Conveniently located 1km from Haugastøl station right at the start of the Rallarvegen.
Finse
Finse is the logical place to spend the night if you plan to cycle the route over two days and offers two accommodation choices.
Hotel Finse 1222 is the most luxurious option along the route offering stunning views from newly decorated and comfortable Scandinavian style rooms with great bathrooms.
Finsehytta is managed by The Norwegian Trekking Association (DNT) who run over 550 cabins in Norway, similar to youth hostels. Some are serviced and provide meals, others are very basic huts serving as simple overnight shelters. Several require membership but the excellent Finsehytta doesn’t. There are private rooms and dorms available and you’re just as likely to share with world leading researchers as you are with a Norwegian family ski touring. Big adventures start here.
Hallingskeid
There’s a DNT cabin in a former railway engineer’s house but you need to be a DNT member to gain access to the lodge by key. Membership is worth paying for if you plan to use the cabins in other areas otherwise this is an expensive option.
Vatnahalsen
Vatnahalsen Hotel is welcoming and the best place to stay if you want to spend a second night on the Rallarvegen. It offers faded grandeur from a bygone era. You’ll feel cocooned away from the outside world in the cosy rooms. This is primarily a ski hotel so is quiet in the summer.
Flåm
Freitheim Hotel is an historic hotel perfectly placed in the picture postcard village of Flåm. Rooms are charming if a little dated.
Flåmsbrygge Hotel is located on the waterfront, some rooms have great views overlooking Aurlandsjord. Part of a complex with a brewery, café and restaurant on-site. Rooms are large and comfortable.
Flåm Camping is a large, well-managed site with excellent facilities including kitchens, washing machines and a drier for wet outdoor gear. It’s very busy in summer but they will always find a space for cyclists with a tent.
Packages
Freitheim Hotel in Flåm and Haugastøl Tourist Centre both offer packages which include accommodation, meals and bike hire. We prefer to plan our own trips, but these are good options if you like everything organised for you.
Places to Eat And Buy Supplies On The Rallarvegen
There aren’t many places that are reliably open on the route so plan ahead and bring food and snacks with you.
Haugastøl Tourist Centre have a café with great coffee, cakes and fast-food options. They sell basic provisions such as crisps, chocolate, drinks and some tinned food. Cycling gear for sale includes helmets, gloves and spare parts.
Oksabotn about 17km into the route has a tiny café selling drinks, waffles and a few bars of chocolate. They aren’t always open so don’t rely on getting food here. We didn’t know about Oksabotn, so it was a lovely surprise to find it. These small family-owned huts operating as tiny cafés offer an authentic taste of Norway. Being so remote it’s hard for them to bring in supplies so do expect justifiably higher prices.
Hotel Finse 1222 have a restaurant serving hearty three course meals or you can buy delicious Rallar burgers and other meals from the café / bar area as well as hot drinks and cakes. They sell basic supplies too, chocolate, crisps and drinks.
Finsehytta offer meals if you are staying here.
Fagernut has a small friendly café serving tea, coffee, soup, waffles and cakes. They aren’t always open so again, don’t rely on them but do pop in if they are open, it’s well worth it.
Vatnahalsen Hotel offer full meals, drinks and waffles.
Myrdal station has the Café Rallaren serving hot and cold snacks and drinks.
Rallarrosa Cheese Farm at Kårdalen has a small café where you can sample their products. Treat yourself to a Norwegian pancake called svele served with fresh goat’s cheese.
Flåm has a selection of places to eat. It’s a tourist hub with a cruise terminal so if a cruise ship is in port, it will be exceptionally busy. Once the ship departs it becomes a lovely peaceful village again. All the food options are centred on the port and there’s a supermarket. Flåmsbrygga Hotel has a restaurant, café and brew pub, Flåm bakery is also good and there’s a stone-baked pizza van outside Flåm Camping.
Everywhere sells waffles, usually served with jam and cream but sometimes with the local Brunost (brown cheese). It’s a unique culinary experience, it tastes like caramel.
Norway caters extremely well for dietary requirements, but this area is very remote so if you have dietary requirements other than vegetarian or if you don’t like waffles, bring your own food. Hotel Finse 1222 had gluten free muffins and one main course option but otherwise you’ll need to wait until you are in Flåm until gluten free and vegan options are available again.
Other Things To Do Along The Rallarvegen
Finse is a fascinating place for lovers of wild places, reindeer can often be seen on the hills and arctic fox if you are lucky. The area is used for expedition training as it’s easier to reach here than travelling to Greenland or Antarctica. The hotel has photos of the many explorers who have been here, including Scott and Shackleton and it hosts an annual Expedition Program with inspirational talks given by incredible adventurers.
The hotel was built so there would be somewhere to stay if the train got stuck in snow, given that there’s snow here for most of the year that seems like a good idea. Anne Holt’s book ‘Finse 1222’, is a thriller based on a rail disaster where the passengers stay at the hotel and a murder is committed, it’s an excellent read.
You can walk on the blue ice of Hardangerjøkulen, the sixth largest glacier in Norway. Take a guided glacier walk starting at Finse station.
Here’s some inspiration for walks starting at Finse. The first one, Aurlandsdalen is exceptional but takes you away from the Rallarvegen so leave this for another time and take one of the suggested day walks.
As well as the Rallar Museum documenting the history of the building of the railway, there’s Flåm Railway Museum next to Flåm station.
The world famous Flåm Railway or Flåmsbana runs 20 km up to Myrdal, with a climb of 865m through 20 tunnels. It’s the steepest railway in Europe and provides exceptional views.
Essentials To Bring On A Rallarvegen Cycle
Norway’s weather can be unpredictable, so appropriate clothing is essential. Layer-up and bring good waterproof gear to stay comfortable in changing conditions.
If you are bringing your own bike, a gravel bike or MTB with front suspension is ideal. There’s nothing technical on the trail, it’s just very rough in parts. Spares should include brake pads and puncture repair kits. Remember to pre-book trains at vy.no if bringing your own bike. Hired bikes all come with basic tools and puncture repair kits.
Helmets are only available to hire at Myrdal so bring your own or purchase one at Haugastøl. Gloves are essential.
The route is well marked and there aren’t many places where you can go wrong, so navigation systems aren’t essential. If you plan to walk, then a map of the Rallarvegen and compass are essential and the ability to use them, this is wild country. We love poring over maps and planning side trips and found this map invaluable for choosing our wild camping spots.
A basic first aid kit is always worth carrying, we brought this one which is designed for cyclists by a doctor who is a keen cyclist himself. It comes in a waterproof case and fits in a pocket.
Keep energy levels up with high-energy snacks and a bring a refillable water bottle, there’s no shortage of places to fill up with clear mountain water on this trip. We use Nalgene bottles, wide-mouthed so they are easier to fill, you can put boiling water in them, pop them in a sock and use as hot water bottles. They also fit in bottle cages, hired bikes come fitted with one bottle cage.
The water here is as pure as it comes but we always filter ours anyway, the extra minute that it takes removes any risk of stomach upsets. We love our Sawyer mini-filter, it’s quick and easy to use and it’s tiny.
If you are planning on bikepacking with your own bike, we recommend Ortlieb bags and panniers or hire panniers from Haugastøl.
It doesn’t get fully dark in July and August so bring an eye mask or buff to cover your eyes and get a good night’s sleep.
As gas and fuel for stoves can’t be brought on a plane, we purchased gas canisters at an outdoor shop in Bergen, there were also some available at Finse 1222.
Travel insurance that covers you for cycling is essential, we use World Nomads and have had to make a few claims over the years, they have always helped us and paid out fairly.
And finally, don’t forget your camera to capture the stunning landscapes and share your Norwegian Rallarvegen memories with friends and family.
Our Rallarvegen cycle was part of a longer trip to Norway. After our cycle, we kayaked for two days along the UNESCO Nærøyfjord.
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